To start off with this post...let me mesmerise you with a picture perfect autumn landscape of majestic Mount Fuji which I snapped from Owakudani, Hakone. It is often said that Mount Fuji tends to shy away behind clouds most of the time. One is considered lucky to capture the perfect view of Mount Fuji especially during colder months. This will be a long post with many pictures....but I promise they are only beautiful sceneries which are worth to share...
Hakone
If you were to ask me where is a must-go place or side trip from Tokyo...I must say Hakone! Hakone is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, less than 100 km from Tokyo. It is a popular destination among both locals and tourists, seeking for peace and relaxation, away from hustle and bustle of Tokyo life. Whether you are to soak in many hot springs, breathe in alpine fresh air, take in enchanting view around, or wander leisurely, there are just too many things that you can do here in order to find your inner peace and well-being...
To get to Hakone, first board Kodama train on JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo Station, which bounds for Shin-Osaka Terminal. Alight at Odawara Station, the journey takes roughly 35 minutes from Tokyo Station.
Once we reached Odawara Station, the first thing we did, was to head to the information office at the station to purchase the Hakone Free Pass. The Hakone Free Pass is operated by Odakyu Railway which allows you to enjoy a fuss-free tour around Hakone. With this pass, you enjoy the unlimited use of Odakyu affiliated buses, trains, boats, cable cars, and ropeway within the Hakone free area.
We bought a 2-day Hakone Free Pass for 3900 yen each.
After which, we headed straight to the Odakyu Line, heading to Hakone-Yumoto Station on an Odakyu train.
When we reached Hakone-Yumoto, we scurried to the Baggage Delivery Service counter to have our small-sized luggage delivered safely straight to our ryokan while we had a peace of mind to tour around Owakudani before the ryokan check-in time. The delivery fee varied according to the size of the luggage. As for us, with a small luggage, we paid 600 yen, after discount of 100 yen using the Hakone Free Pass. We were still on time to hop in a train which travelled on Hakone Tozan Railway, and off we went to Gora. Change to Hakone Tozan Cablecar from Gora, to get to Sounzan.
At Sounzan, where we transferred to Owakudani on Hakone Ropeway.
Owakudani
Before touching down at Owakudani, here was the bird's- eye view of the Owakudani...which looked like a desert or hell valley from far.
Owakudani is formed from a crater created as a result of an eruption of Mount Hakone 3000 years ago. It is still an active volcanic zone where you can see sulfurous fumes, hot springs and hot creeks. We saw the best view of Mount Fuji from Owakudani on that fine sunny day...almost cloudless, with deep blue sky....WOW!! WOW!! WOW!!! That's the only thing I could mutter to myself at that point of time when I stood in front of the unblock view of symmetrical Mount Fuji...speechless! My Japan trip during the last autumn was indeed a fruitful one, very much, as I managed to view Mount Fuji clearly a couple of times, while on my way back to Tokyo from Kyoto in a shinkansen, and now while on a retreat vacation in Hakone. I am a lucky girl!
It took about 10 minutes walk along a short trail from the Owakudani ropeway station to the volcanic zone, with sights of steam vents and a big sulphur pond. The smell of rotten egg filled in the air and you can see warning signages everywhere.
You can purchase sulphur boiled eggs which are cooked in the hot spring water. The process of cooking the eggs can be seen from 2 pictures below....
First, cages of eggs are placed submerged in the sulphurous pool, and after sometime.....
.....the eggs turn into charcoal black...but fret not, only the outer shell turns black, the rest still look like the normal boiled egg. It is said that by eating one boiled egg, it helps to prolong one's life by SEVEN years!
Hubby bought a packet of 5 sulphur boiled eggs for 500 yen...I ate 3..which also means I prolonged my life for another 21 years...wow!!
The peak of snow-capped Mount Fuji, zoomed in using my DSLR Canon EF-S 18-200mm lens.
Lake Ashi
Lake Ashi was formed in the caldera of Mount Hakone after a volcano eruption. To get there, take Hakone Ropeway from Owakudani to Togendai-Ko Pier. Transfer to Hakone Sightseeing Cruise where you can enjoy charming lakeview of Lake Ashi with Mount Fuji in the background.
Alighted from the Pirate Ship, at Hakone Machi-Ko.
The swan ride along the pier....with beautiful autumn colours.
Spot the Mount Fuji across the lake....
Hakone Ginyu
From Hakone Machi-Ko, We proceeded to the bus terminal and took a Hakone Tozan Bus bound for Odawara Station. The bus was sardine-packed and the journey was gruesome with lots of sharp bents along narrow winding road. Luckily, I got on the bus from the terminal which means I was seated for the entire 40 minutes journey! We got off at Miyanoshita bus stop and crossed the road where we saw the Hakone-Ginyu signage just a few steps to the right.
Hakone Ginyu has received a Travelers' Choice Award in 2012 and known as one of the top contemporary ryokan in Japan, which is published in the Ryokan Collection Guide in Japan. We felt anticipated with a night stay in this recognised spa resort.
Walked down the slope for less than 5 minutes, there we were at the entrance of Hakone-Ginyu. We were welcomed by a friendly English speaking staff and instantly felt the warm homey feel given. Drinks were served and after the registration was done, the staff gave us a brief intro on the ryokan's layout, which was quite interesting in a way that the lobby and reception area is located at 5th floor, while other guest rooms are located from 1st floor to 4th floor, meaning our room which was on 3rd floor was at the lower level of the 5th floor. If you are wondering hard on the peculiar layout, let me show you the plan...
Hakone Ginyu is tucked away in the lush mountains of Hakone, hence, all the guest rooms allow spectacular view of four seasons all year round. The solitude lush with infinite beauty of natural melts away stress of urban life. This is the kind of spa resort suits loving couples who seek for a refreshing, and relaxing stay in a wonderful setting overlooking the steep valley. It was a memorable stay which I definitely recommend to anyone who visit Hakone for an overnight stay.
A welcome drink of hot ginger tea to warm our bodies in the cooling month of autumn...behind the glass was a gigantic fish tank in the waiting area, located at the 5th floor.
After the drink, the staff showed us to our room....with the theme of
Sun and Cloud. We had 2 complimentary drinks at any two bars available around ryokan, and some refreshment of mouth watering snacks and hot green tea which was served the minute we walked into the room.
There are all 20 rooms in Hakone Ginyu with different themes of natural elements like wind, star, cloud, and moon. Each is decorated in different layout, offering different views. Ours was located at the 3rd floor, facing the stunning lush mountain view of autumn colours.
The highlight of the stay were of course the private outdoor hot spring bath and the scrumptious
kaiseki (multi-course Japanese meal) dinner served in the comfort of our room.
The hall where pull out futons will be laid out by the staff for a good night rest.
The dining hall where we had our kaiseki dinner and breakfast....
The sofa seating at the balcony, which was a tad cold to sit on in autumn...
Our very own private outdoor hot spring bath overlooking the autumn beauty at its best whilst melting our stress and worries away, soaking in the hot tub...aahhhhh....life is GREAT everytime we travel to Japan!
A large shower with a sliding door which leads to outdoor balcony...
The typical Japanese traditional bath with a wooden stool and bucket...
The wooden geta to be worn around the ryokan...
Changed into their
yukata (Japanese style robe or cotton kimono) and got ready for a nice soak in their public hot spring bath at 5th floor.
Ginyu Spa located at 1st floor which offers guests a relaxing massage with facial treatments and reflexology....a perfect way to unwind after a dip in hot spring.
The beautiful Garden Lounge, Myojyo...
Serves alcoholic drinks and beverages of all sorts....
The iconic unblock view of the mountains from the lobby area....this was taken during the late evening when everything was pitch dark....
The two enormous fish tanks which I was talking about earlier...at the waiting area.
Walked around the 5th floor, saw many interesting decor of traditional Japanese with a touch of Balinese influence.
It was almost 7 p.m., when I returned to my room. Ryokan staffs were seen busy serving trays of food from room to room along the aisle, laid with bamboo mat.
A list of menu was presented to each of us, both prepared in English and hand-written by the Japanese chef in Japanese. The following pictures might be a little bit disturbing if you were to read on with hungry stomach....hahahaaaa....I warn you! We had an unforgettable 2 hours kaiseki dinner, literally, which was meticulously prepared. Ingredients used were nonetheless fresh, using seasonal local products and ingredients....with interesting autumn decor and dish wares.
Dinner was started off with appetiser wine of
local mandarin orange wine from Odawara region.
First dish:
The Chef's Hors d'Oeuvres Platter which includes......
Roast Duck with miso paste and Ebiimo (a kind of taro) on a layer of Fish and Onion Paste (on the most left side of the platter).....and...
Snow Crab dressed with soy sauce gelatine, kombu gelatine and sudachi citrus (in a dark ceramic bowl); Buckwheat Paste topped with Sea Urchin and Wasabi (in a spoon); Ponzu Gelatin (Japanese Condiment) on a layer of Anko-Fish Liver Paste (to the left-2 pieces); Hamaguri Clam dressed with yuba (beancurd from soy milk) in a squarish ceramic bowl..
The platter was beautifully decorated with autumn elements of leaves, bark and berries.....
Second dish: S
oup of the day.....
Minced Oyster and yuzu-citrus soup.
Third dish:
Seasonal Sashimi....
...of freshest fish....
Itadakimasu...
......and fatty
otoro. A natural rock salt was prepared alongside with the sashimi where we were supposed to place the raw sashimi on it for 20 seconds for a more robust flavour! YUM! YUM!
When we thought we were almost half way done, only then we were served with the
ENTREES!!
First entree:
Japanese Sirloin Beef and Veggies with a delicate mixture of Chef's Original Sauce
OMG!!!! This was superbly YUM!! The sirloin was tender and perfectly done.....so moist and fatty which almost melted in my mouth when I took the first bite! I lost for words to describe....try it when you stay in Hakone Ginyu in the future....LOL
2nd entree: Broiled Barracuda-fish dressed with cabbage and red onion topped with mustard vinegar
3rd entree:
Broiled Kasago-fish with Wakasaji sauce (left) and Broiled Puffer-fish Milt in Soybean Milk (right)
And now the
Rice Dish mixed with Ginkgo Nuts served with Chef's Original Pickled Vegetables and Miso Soup.
Our pretty ryokan's staff helped us took a couple shot....
A dessert to end the course....
Chef's Original Baked Fruit Pudding with ginger syrup and fruity brandy.
Two staffs stepped in politely and quickly laid out our futons at the next hall.
A satisfying kaiseki dinner which left us with no more space on the tummies, and it's the perfect time to skinny dip in the public baths. Brought the complimentary drink card with me.....
There were 2 public baths in the ryokan, the red curtain for the ladies, the blue for the gents. These baths will swap the next morning in order to let the guests have the opportunity to use both baths during their stay. The baths are opened for long hours from 5 am to 1 am the following day!
The indoor bath...completed with sauna rooms nearby...
The bubbling outdoor bath....brrrr......it was cold at night. I was standing there naked with a small piece of face towel just enough to cover a small fraction of my bottom!
The toiletries prepared for the guests who use the public baths.....
After a warm dip, I moved on to Bouyu Lounge at the 5th floor to enjoy the complimentary drink. I had a glass of refreshing Asahi beer.
The next day morning, I went for a soak again but this time in another public bath with an infinity hot spring bath. The rays of early morning sunrise casted bright orangy colour on the autumn lush around, enhanced the glow of fiery autumn hues....it was really a pleasure for all senses....
You gotta see to believe! Here's one with casted sunrays on the lush mountains....
More of my selfies....LOL
After having enough of the public baths, I went back to my room to have my own private skinny dip, minus the awkwardness to strip in front of strangers...;) Melt all those stress and tiredness away in the privacy of our own private outdoor hot bath with beautiful morning view....greeted by birds' chirping, cool morning breeze and wonderful sweet smell of fresh alpine air.....
Another set of kimono with pants,
jimbei, which I worn on the second day. During ryokan stay, guests are required to wear the yukata provided at all time. This applies to all other ryokans in Japan.
Taken with a camera using a timer at our room's balcony....
Again using self-set timer, when no one was around....
Had a cuppa at the lobby's verandah while waiting for hubby to settle with the payment.
Breakfast was served at 8 am..there is a choice of Western or Japanese styled breakfast. Hubby had Western as for me, I prefer Japanese style.
Looking energised and refreshed after a good night sleep, with endless count of dipping in hot springs.
Western breakfast comprised of omelette, sausage, cereal,yoghurt, fresh fruit, salad, and a basket of croissants and toasted bread.
As for Japanese, includes a bowl of belly warming porridge, grilled fish, egg custard, some pickles, miso soup and soya bean curd. Initially the porridge was cooked in a hotpot on a charcoal stand, the attentive staff helped me to dish out the porridge into a bowl....
Though the stay cost quite a bomb, but the top-notch service and a memorable stay with beautiful lush setting, we knew that it's a correct choice where our money was well spent!
After breakfast, we changed into our clothing, and it's time to bid Hakone Ginyu farewell with heavy heart. We left our luggage in the safe hands of our ryokan, which would be sent to Hakone-Yumoto for collection in the later day. Then, we headed to Miyanoshita Station, which is just a stone's throw away from Hakone Ginyu.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
We visited the Hakone Open-Air Museum, one of the must-see attractions in Hakone, located just 2 stations away from Miyanoshita, on Hakone Tozan Train. Alight at Chokokunomori Station, follow the signage at the road side to guide you to the museum. It is about 5 minutes walk from the station. Admission fee is 1600 yen per person.
If you are a nature enthusiast, and love artistic sculptures, the Hakone Open-Air Museum is the place for you!
Was amazed with this persimmon tree, 'blossomed' with fruits without any leaves in sight...
The Hakone Open-Air Museum with touch of autumn beauty...
We travelled back to Tokyo and had our lunch at a curry udon house....by far, my family's favourite. My kids always rave about going back to this place to have their yummylicious curry udon.
Seafood curry udon served in claypot, only available in colder months of autumn and winter. During my visit with my kids in summer, they served curry udon in normal bowl.
A rich selection of seafood ingredients in a bowl of curry udon. The noodle strain was springy and it's so unlike the normal udon that we had. You can choose the level of spiciness which you prefer. Chilli powder and chilli oil are provided as side condiments.
This is the curry udon house....next to it, is the Go Go Curry, famous for its katsu curry. To get there, simply turn to left once you exit Shinjuku Station South Exit, walk straight ahead till you see Go Go Curry with yellow signage featuring a gorilla face. It is approximate 5 to 10 minutes walk from the station.
Dinner in an
izakaya eatery (a casual after-work drinking place among locals, usually with food served to go along with the drink, especially beer) ......
We ordered beef hotpot served with raw egg, assorted yakitori, shisamo....
Grilled fish...
....and not forgetting our all-time-favourite sashimi.....fresh from the fish tank. We chose flounder and it was still alive by the time it was served on our table, gasping for its last breath...
So that's all about Day 9 and 10 in our 14 days Japan Autumn travelouge.....
